04
The Sauce Larder

Where the magic
actually happens.

Every serious cook keeps a mental library of sauces. Five mothers, a dozen children, a handful of upstarts from Oaxaca, Hong Kong and Catalonia. Master these, and you can dress any protein, any vegetable, any night of the week.

Aïoli
01Emulsion

Aïoli

Garlic, salt, olive oil. Real aïoli is not mayonnaise with garlic in it — it is its own beast entirely.

Provence, France
Beurre Blanc
02Emulsion

Beurre Blanc

Butter, wine, shallots. Three ingredients. One transcendent sauce.

Loire Valley, France
Beurre Monté
03Emulsion

Beurre Monté

Butter held in a stable emulsion — the chef's poaching liquid.

France
Beurre Noisette
04Reduction

Beurre Noisette

Butter, browned. Ten minutes to nutty amber.

France
Béarnaise
05Emulsion

Béarnaise

Hollandaise's more sophisticated older sister. Tarragon, shallot, vinegar reduction, then egg and butter.

France (Béarn region)
Béchamel
06Mother Sauce

Béchamel

Milk + white roux. The kindest of the five.

France
Chermoula
07Condiment

Chermoula

North Africa's green marinade — coriander, cumin, paprika, preserved lemon, garlic.

Morocco / Algeria / Tunisia
Chimichurri
08Condiment

Chimichurri

The raw green sauce that lives on the asado table.

Argentina / Uruguay
Espagnole → Demi-Glace
09Mother Sauce

Espagnole → Demi-Glace

The mother of every serious brown sauce.

France
Hollandaise
10Mother Sauce

Hollandaise

Warm egg yolk emulsion. The morning sauce.

France
Marie Rose / Cocktail Sauce
11Condiment

Marie Rose / Cocktail Sauce

The 1970s prawn cocktail dressing — pink, sweet-sour, unimpeachable.

United Kingdom
Mayonnaise
12Emulsion

Mayonnaise

Egg yolks, oil, mustard. The universal binder — everything else in this list starts here.

France (probably)
Mole Poblano
13Reduction

Mole Poblano

Twenty-plus ingredients, three days of work, one of the great sauces of the world.

Puebla, Mexico
Nam Jim
14Vinaigrette

Nam Jim

Fish sauce, lime, palm sugar, chilli, garlic. The bright four-way balance of Thai cooking.

Thailand
Nuoc Cham
15Vinaigrette

Nuoc Cham

Vietnam's daily dipping sauce — fish sauce, lime, sugar, garlic, chilli. Kinder than nam jim.

Vietnam
Ponzu
16Vinaigrette

Ponzu

Citrus soy — soy sauce, yuzu or sudachi, dashi, mirin, rice vinegar.

Japan
Romesco
17Condiment

Romesco

Smoky, nutty, red-pepper backbone of a Catalan feast.

Catalonia, Spain
Salsa Verde
18Condiment

Salsa Verde

The Italian answer to 'what should I put on this?'

Italy
Sauce Rémoulade
19Condiment

Sauce Rémoulade

Tartare's more grown-up cousin — anchovy, gherkin, mustard, saffron optional.

France
Sauce Tartare
20Condiment

Sauce Tartare

Mayonnaise, capers, cornichons, herbs. The friend that lifts every fried thing on earth.

France
Sauce au Poivre
21Reduction

Sauce au Poivre

The steakhouse essential — cream, brandy, crushed black peppercorns, beef stock.

France
Velouté
22Mother Sauce

Velouté

White stock + blond roux. The base for a thousand sauces.

France
Vin Blanc / Sauce Vin Blanc
23Reduction

Vin Blanc / Sauce Vin Blanc

The classic white wine and cream fish sauce.

France
XO Sauce
24Condiment

XO Sauce

The Rolls-Royce of Chinese pantry condiments.

Hong Kong