Twenty-plus ingredients, three days of work, one of the great sauces of the world.
The story goes: nuns at the Convento de Santa Rosa in Puebla created it in the 17th century for an archbishop's visit — desperate, they threw whatever was in the pantry into a pot. What emerged was a bittersweet, smoky, chocolate-tinged sauce so complex it's basically a philosophy. Every family has their own recipe. Every mole is a small argument.
Toast 4 ancho, 3 mulato, 2 pasilla chillies (deseeded) in a dry pan until fragrant. Rehydrate 30 minutes in warm water.
Toast in the same pan: 50g almonds, 30g sesame seeds, 30g raisins, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 stick cinnamon, 3 cloves. Set aside.
In a pan with lard: fry 1 diced onion, 4 garlic cloves, 500g tomatillos, 200g tomatoes until soft. Add 2 slices dry bread, toast.
Blend everything with 500ml chicken stock in batches. Push through a chinois.
Back to the pan: simmer 60 minutes, skimming. Add 60g dark Mexican chocolate (or 70% cocoa + a pinch of cinnamon) in the last 10 minutes. Season with salt and a tiny pinch of sugar.