The larder
seafood

Monkfish

Ugly fish, gorgeous flesh — the poor cook's lobster.

One of the sea's ugliest creatures becomes one of its finest fillets. Firm, meaty, sweet — monkfish handles bold treatment (curry, brown butter, big herbs) better than any delicate flat fish. The tail is what you're buying; the rest was traditionally binned.

In season: autumnwinterspring
Photograph on its way

Where to find it

Any decent fishmonger. Ask for the tail; check the membrane is off.

Pairs with

Brown butterCurry leavesBaconCapersChorizoFennel

How to pick it

  • Pearly white flesh, no pinkness
  • Firm as a steak
  • No fishy pong

How to treat it

  • Remove all silver membrane — it shrinks and turns rubbery
  • Season 30 minutes ahead
  • Sear hard in a hot pan; roast to finish (54°C internal)
  • Rest 3-5 minutes
Watch out
  • – Undercooked monk is chewy; overcooked is dry — 54°C is the sweet spot
  • – Very firm — will feel bouncy when done
  • – The cheeks are edible and superb
Cook it: recipes with monkfish