Cornish Monkfish, Rajasthani Rouge — Where the Desert Met the Sea
Mathania chilli, mustard oil, saffron pilau, tomato-yoghurt kadhi. Jodhpur meets Jowey.
Monkfish in autumn is a brute—dense, forgiving, and grateful for bold spice. We marinate it Rajasthani-style: yoghurt, mustard oil, mathania chilli (the hot stuff from the desert), then char it till the outside catches fire and the inside stays sweet. Vivek Singh would recognise this move. The saffron pilau keeps it honest; the kadhi—thin, tart, yoghurt-based—cuts through the richness like a knife.
How to Cook It
- 01
Marinate the monkfish (or get ahead)
Pat the monkfish tail dry. Mix yoghurt, mustard oil, mathania chilli, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp salt, and a squeeze of lemon. Coat the fish all over—get it into the crevices. Cling film and into the fridge for at least 2 hours, or overnight. The yoghurt will tighten the flesh; the spice will creep in.
~10 min - 02
Toast and soak the saffron
Warm a small bowl. Toast the saffron threads over a bare flame for 20 seconds—you'll smell the desert. Pour 150ml hot water over them. Sit for 10 minutes. The water turns gold; the threads go limp and fragrant.
~15 min - 03
Build the pilau
Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a heavy pot. Toast the cumin, mustard, and fenugreek seeds until they pop and smell nutty (2 minutes). Add 300g basmati rice, stir for 2 minutes to coat. Pour in 480ml stock (fish or vegetable) and the saffron liquor. Bring to a boil, then cover and turn heat to low. Cook for 15 minutes. Leave off heat, covered, for 5 more. Fluff with a fork.
~25 min - 04
Make the kadhi
Blitz 500g tomatoes (fresh or tinned). Heat 1 tbsp mustard oil in a pan, add 1 tsp cumin seeds, 4-5 curry leaves, and 2 dried red chillies (broken). Pour in the tomato purée, 200ml yoghurt (whisked smooth), and 200ml water. Simmer for 8 minutes, stirring often. Season with salt and a pinch of sugar. It should be thin, tart, and cling to the back of a spoon.
~12 min - 05
Char the monkfish
Heat a cast-iron griddle or grill pan until it smokes. Lay the monkfish tail skin-side down. Don't move it for 6 minutes—let the skin blacken and the flesh firm. Flip. Another 5-6 minutes on the other side. The fish will give slightly under your finger; it'll be opaque at the thickest point. Rest for 2 minutes.
~13 min - 06
Serve
Pile the saffron pilau in the centre of a warm plate. Spoon kadhi around it. Slice the monkfish tail into four pieces (it'll be tender; the knife will slide). Lay the pieces over the pilau. Finish with a few fresh curry leaves and a pinch of fleur de sel.
~3 min
“Don't overthink it. The pilau sits proud; the fish leans against it; the kadhi pools round like a moat. Gold, gold, and burnt orange. One slice of lemon on the side if you're feeling fancy. This is food made to be eaten, not photographed.”
First bite: the char on the monkfish skin gives way to sweet, buttery flesh—the yoghurt marinade has basted it from the inside. The mathania chilli arrives next, warm and fruity, not a knife-edge heat. Saffron pilau is quiet, fragrant, letting the fish lead. Then the kadhi cuts in—tart tomato, yoghurt tang, a whisper of spice—and suddenly it all makes sense. You taste Rajasthan in Cornish waters, and you don't want to leave.
Swap the monkfish for a 200g block of pressed tofu per person, sliced lengthwise into two thick steaks. Marinate in the same yoghurt-mustard-chilli mix (use unsweetened coconut or cashew yoghurt). The pilau stays identical. For the kadhi: replace yoghurt with 200ml coconut cream whisked with 1 tbsp cornflour to thicken it—simmer it just as you would. Char the tofu the same way; it won't blacken as dramatically, but it'll pick up colour and nutty char. Serve with confidence. This is not a compromise; it's another door into the same room.
Bone-dry, saline, mineral. Cuts through the yoghurt and chilli without flinching. The sea recognises its own.
Crisp, clean, a bit malty. Won't fight the spice; will refresh between bites. Local is better here.
Kombucha's slight sourness echoes the kadhi; the ginger nods at the spice. Water, honestly, is noble too—let the food do the talking.
- ·Monkfish tail is surprisingly robust—don't baby it. A proper char won't hurt; it adds umami.
- ·Make the kadhi an hour ahead if you can. It tastes better when the spices have had time to bed in.
- ·Toast your spices dry before adding oil. Dry heat opens them up; oil seals the flavour in.
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