The two clean, savoury foundations of modern fine dining.
Every serious kitchen keeps a container of dashi and a container of jus in the walk-in. One is Japan's answer to stock — clean, umami, made in fifteen minutes. The other is French tradition, distilled to its darkest, glossiest form.
How To Make Dashi 3 Ways (Recipe)
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10g kombu per litre of cold water. Rest 30 minutes to overnight in the fridge. Bring to a bare simmer — never boil the kombu; you'll get bitter, slimy nastiness.
Pull the kombu out at 60°C. Off the heat, add 20g katsuobushi. Steep 3 minutes only. Strain through muslin. You now have ichiban dashi — the pristine first extraction.
Roast bones at 220°C until deep mahogany, 45 minutes. Add trimming, tomato purée, roast another 10. If it isn't dark you have nothing.
Deglaze the tray with red wine into a saucepan, add just enough cold water to cover. Simmer, skimming, 90 minutes. Pass. Reduce again until it coats a spoon like syrup.
Cool fast, portion into 100ml pots, freeze. A single spoonful of proper jus lifts a plate.