Baccalà Mantecato on Grilled Polenta — The Whipped Miracle

1. 01

   Desalt the cod

   Lay the baccalà in a large bowl, cover with cold water, and soak for 24–36 hours in the fridge, changing the water every 8 hours. You're leaching out salt, not cooking. Smell it near the end — it should smell like ocean and fish, not brine.

   ~1440 min
2. 02

   Poach gently

   Drain the desalted cod. In a wide pot, heat the milk until small bubbles gather at the edge — don't boil. Lay the cod in the milk, reduce the heat to low, and poach for 12–15 minutes until it flakes when touched with a fork. The fish should be pale and tender. Lift it out onto a plate; reserve the milk for sipping (seriously, it's lovely).

   ~20 min
3. 03

   Whip it

   Let the cod cool slightly, then flake it into a large mortar, removing any bones or skin as you go. Pound it with the pestle into a fibrous paste — takes 5 minutes of work. Begin adding the olive oil one tablespoon at a time, pounding and stirring after each addition, as if you're making mayonnaise. The mixture will suddenly turn pale, thick, and fluffy. If it seems stiff, loosen it with a splash of the poaching milk. Taste and season with salt and white pepper.

   ~15 min
4. 04

   Build the polenta

   In a separate pot, bring 700ml of salted water to a rolling boil. Sprinkle the polenta in slowly while whisking hard to avoid lumps. Reduce the heat and stir constantly for 20 minutes — it'll thicken and bubble like lava. Stir in the butter, taste, and adjust salt. Pour onto a lightly oiled baking tray in a layer about 1cm thick. Cool to room temperature (or chill overnight).

   ~25 min
5. 05

   Grill the polenta

   Cut the cooled polenta into triangles or rectangles. Heat a cast-iron griddle or heavy frying pan over medium-high heat until it's smoking. Lay the polenta pieces on it without moving them — let them char and crisp on the bottom, about 3–4 minutes per side. You want a golden crust and warm interior.

   ~10 min
6. 06

   Plate and scatter

   Lay 2–3 grilled polenta triangles on a warm plate or wooden board. Dollop or spoon the baccalà mantecato on top, nudging it into rough peaks. Crack a pinch of black pepper over it, scatter with torn parsley, and finish with a few grains of sea salt. Serve warm, never hot.

First bite is creamy and salty, the baccalà dissolving on your tongue like a cloud. Then the polenta's texture catches — gritty, rich, charred at the edges. The olive oil rounds it all out, warm and peppery. By the last triangle you're hooked: it's the kind of dish that makes you order another spritz.

• ·Don't rush the desalting — lazy salt cod tastes like tears and regret
• ·If you don't have a mortar, use a blender on low; it's faster but less romantic
• ·Leftover baccalà keeps for 3 days in the fridge; great on crackers or bread
• ·The polenta can be made a day ahead — just chill and grill fresh when you're ready