A vegan's birthright — herb-bright, seed-rich, unapologetically green
Mole is Oaxaca's soul food — and for centuries, it's been meat's closest friend. But in summer, when tomatillos flood the markets and hoja santa unfurls from every garden fence, the vegetables speak loud enough. This green mole doesn't bow to tradition; it rewrites it. You'll find it in home kitchens across the Valley of Oaxaca, especially where the cooks are tired of explaining themselves.
Heat a dry comal or heavy pan over medium-high heat. Toast the pumpkin seeds for 4–5 minutes, shaking constantly, until they turn pale gold and begin to pop. They should smell nutty, almost like popcorn. Set aside to cool slightly. You've just unlocked the spine of the mole.
Return the comal to high heat. Lay the poblanos directly on the flame (or under a grill) and turn with tongs every minute or so until the skin blackens all over — about 4 minutes. Do the same with the tomatillos, turning gently so they blister and collapse. You want char, not ash. Place the poblanos in a plastic bag to steam for 5 minutes, then peel away the blackened skin under cool running water. Split, remove seeds and stem. Tomatillos can stay as they are.
In a blender, combine the toasted pepitas, charred poblanos, blistered tomatillos, jalapeños, half the hoja santa, all the cilantro, the white onion (quartered), garlic, and 250ml of stock. Blend until it's a rough, grainy paste — smooth but with character. Don't over-blend; mole should have texture, not be baby food. Taste; adjust salt.
Heat 60ml of oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Pour in the blended paste and cook, stirring often, for 10–12 minutes. It will deepen and darken slightly, and the raw blender smell will give way to something toasty and alive. Add the remaining 250ml of stock gradually, stirring to loosen. The sauce should be the consistency of thick cream — pourable but substantial. Season generously with salt.
While the mole simmers, heat the white beans gently in a separate pot with the epazote and a pinch of salt — they only need 5 minutes to warm through. Meanwhile, heat a cast-iron griddle or wide pan over high heat with the remaining 20ml of oil. Cut the courgettes lengthwise into 1cm planks. Peel the chayote, halve it, remove the pit, and slice into similar planks. Griddle them in batches (don't crowd) for 3–4 minutes per side until blistered and tender with a little char. Season as they come off the heat.
Divide the griddled courgettes and chayote among four bowls. Spoon the warm beans over, then ladle the mole verde generously over everything. Tear the remaining hoja santa leaves and scatter on top. The mole should be still-warm, fragrant, and the vegetables should glisten. Serve immediately — this is a dish that doesn't wait.
“This isn't plating — it's feeding. Courgettes and chayote go in first, beans next, then the mole poured hot and generous over the top. The green should be vivid, almost luminous. A torn leaf of hoja santa on the finish does the work of garnish without fussiness. The vegetables should still have a gentle firmness; there's no overcooking in Oaxaca.”
Green and grassy on first spoon, then the pumpkin seed richness blooms on the middle palate — a whisper of anise from the hoja santa, a gentle warmth from the jalapeño that builds but never bites. The charred vegetables are sweet and faintly bitter. By the end, you taste the whole summer: bright, herbal, deeply satisfying, with a finish that tastes like cilantro-kissed earth.
Bright, herbaceous whites that echo the cilantro and hoja santa without fighting the mole's depth
Clean, crisp body cuts through the richness of the pepitas; local options are best
Traditional and proper — the tart floral notes of jamaica complement the mole's herbal brightness; horchata provides cool balance
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