Baccalà Mantecato — The Salt Cod Beaten to Cloud

1. 01

   Soak and desalt the baccalà

   Place the dried salt cod in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Change the water every 6–8 hours over 24–36 hours. You're leaching out the salt; taste a tiny shred now and then — it should go from jaw-clenchingly briny to pleasantly saline, with a gentle ocean note. When ready, it should bend without cracking.

   ~1440 min
2. 02

   Poach the cod gently in milk

   Drain the soaked baccalà and tear it into rough chunks, removing any stubborn bones. Heat 600ml whole milk in a wide, shallow pan until it steams but doesn't boil. Add the cod and poach for 12–15 minutes — it should be tender and flaking. The milk will turn milky-white and slightly fishy; that's exactly right. Drain, reserving the milk, and let the fish cool slightly.

   ~20 min
3. 03

   Whip the cod into submission

   Transfer the warm poached cod to a large mortar and pestle (or a mixer with paddle attachment if you're not masochistic). Begin beating it hard — you're breaking down the fibres into a silky emulsion. Slowly, as if making mayonnaise, drizzle in the olive oil while you pound or mix. The mixture will transform: from shreds to paste to pale, fluffy mousse. This takes patience and muscle; don't rush it. You'll know it's done when it holds soft peaks and is nearly white.

   ~15 min
4. 04

   Make the polenta

   Bring 800ml stock to a gentle boil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Whisk in the polenta slowly in a thin stream, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Reduce heat to very low and stir every 2–3 minutes for 30–40 minutes. The polenta is done when it's thick, creamy, and pulls away from the sides of the pot. Stir in the butter and a pinch of salt. Pour onto a parchment-lined tray, smooth to about 1cm thick, and cool to room temperature (or chill if you have time).

   ~50 min
5. 05

   Cut and grill the polenta

   Once set, cut the polenta into triangles or rectangles about 8cm across. Heat a cast-iron griddle or heavy frying pan over medium-high heat until it's smoking slightly. Brush each piece lightly with oil and lay them on the hot pan. Grill 2–3 minutes per side until deep golden lines appear and the outside is crisp. They should have a slight crust and a warm, soft centre.

   ~10 min
6. 06

   Assemble and finish

   Lay a grilled polenta triangle on a warm plate. Top with a generous dollop of the whipped baccalà — pile it high, let it tumble a little. Grind fresh black pepper over it generously, scatter torn parsley leaves, and drizzle with a thread of good olive oil. Serve at once, while the polenta is still warm and the cod still has a slight chill to it.

   ~5 min

First bite: the grilled polenta has that crisp edge, then melts into butter and corn sweetness. The baccalà hits you next — saline, oceanic, but whipped so pale and fluffy it's almost delicate. There's a marine umami underneath, then a whisper of the olive oil, peppery and alive. It shouldn't work — whipped salt fish on cornmeal — but it does. Addictive. You'll eat four pieces before you mean to.

• ·Don't rush the desalting — under-desalted baccalà will make you regret every choice. Taste as you go.
• ·The whipping is everything. Use a mortar and pestle if you have the forearms; it's meditative and you'll feel the moment it breaks down. A mixer is faster but misses the point.
• ·Leftover whipped baccalà keeps 3 days in the fridge. Use it on crostini, or fold into pasta. It's never wasted.
• ·Grilled polenta leftovers can be reheated gently in a pan or even toasted. Don't bin them.