Nasu Dengaku — Miso-Glazed Aubergine

1. 01

   Ready the aubergines

   Halve the aubergines lengthwise. Score the flesh in a crosshatch pattern, cutting just deep enough to kiss the skin — you want those little squares to soak up the glaze and char at the edges. Brush both sides generously with oil, salt the cut side lightly.

   ~5 min
2. 02

   Roast until silky

   Place aubergines cut-side down on a preheated grill pan or baking tray under a hot grill (or on a barbecue). Roast for 12–15 minutes until the flesh is completely tender and wobbles when you poke it, and the skin side is starting to char. The aubergine should collapse a little — that's the goal.

   ~15 min
3. 03

   Make the glaze

   While the aubergines roast, combine white miso, mirin, sake, and sugar in a small bowl. Whisk until smooth — no lumps. The mixture should be glossy, loose enough to paint, thick enough to cling. Taste it: it should be sweet, salty, and alive.

   ~3 min
4. 04

   Paint and char

   Remove aubergines from the grill. Brush the cut side generously with the miso glaze — work quickly, the aubergines will still be hot. Return to the grill, cut-side up, for 3–4 minutes. Watch closely: the glaze will bubble, darken, and smell almost burned. That's not a mistake, that's dinner. You want char, not caramel.

   ~5 min
5. 05

   Toast the sesame

   While the second roast happens, toast sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium heat for 2–3 minutes, shaking regularly, until they're fragrant and lightly golden. Tip into a small bowl — they'll crisp as they cool.

   ~3 min
6. 06

   Finish and plate

   Remove aubergines from the grill and transfer cut-side up to a serving plate. The glaze should be bubbling and deep brown. Scatter toasted sesame seeds over the top while still hot, then tear 2 shiso leaves per half and lay them on top. Serve immediately.

   ~2 min

The first bite is sweet-savoury heat — that miso glaze has caramelised just enough to coat your tongue. Then the aubergine flesh melts like butter, yielding completely. The sesame adds crunch and nuttiness. Shiso comes last, bright and peppery, cutting through the richness. Addictive. You'll eat both halves and wish there was more.

• ·Don't skip the crosshatch scoring — it's not theatre, it lets the glaze soak into the flesh and creates surface area for char
• ·The glaze bubbles fast; keep your eye on it or you'll serve miso-coal instead of miso-glaze. High heat, short time
• ·Toast sesame seeds yourself in a dry pan — bought pre-toasted often tastes dusty and old. Five minutes at home changes everything