Veal Cheek, Morels & Wild Garlic—Spring's Honest Braise

1. 01

   Prep the cheeks

   Pat the veal cheeks dry with paper towel—they'll sear better. Trim any sinew or ragged fat. Season both sides well with salt and pepper. Let them sit for 10 minutes while the pan heats.

   ~15 min
2. 02

   Sear hard

   Heat 30ml oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Working in batches so you don't crowd the pan, sear each cheek for 3–4 minutes per side until they've got a deep golden crust. Don't move them—let the heat do the work. Set aside on a plate.

   ~12 min
3. 03

   Build the braise

   In the same pot, sauté the morels (cleaned, halved if large) with a pinch of salt for 4 minutes until they release their moisture and start to colour. Add half the wild garlic (chopped roughly) and cook for another minute. Return the cheeks to the pot, nestling them among the mushrooms, and pour in the stock. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and slide into a 160°C oven for 2.5 hours. The meat should be tender enough to cut with a spoon.

   ~160 min
4. 04

   Make the purée

   While the braise goes, boil the potatoes in salted water until they fall apart—about 20 minutes. Drain, then pass through a fine sieve into a warm bowl. Fold in the butter and a splash of the cooking water until you've got a silky purée. Taste, season. If you like, fold through a handful of the raw, finely sliced wild garlic for a fresh edge.

   ~25 min
5. 05

   Finish and plate

   Lift the veal cheeks onto a warm plate. Strain the braising liquor through a fine sieve, pressing the morels gently to extract their goodness. Skim any excess fat, then pour the liquor back into the pot and simmer for 5 minutes to concentrate the flavour. Taste, season. Stir through the remaining raw wild garlic at the last second—it'll perfume everything without cooking into submission.

   ~8 min

First bite: the veal's rich umami, almost sweet, giving way to the velvety paste of the purée. The morels bring a mineral earthiness—real funk. The wild garlic's musky heat cuts through the richness like a bell going off. By the last spoonful, you're chasing the sauce with your spoon. Proper cooking.

• ·Don't skip the sear. Crust is flavour; it's where the braise begins.
• ·Veal cheeks need time—rushing them won't make them tender, just sad. Trust the heat and the clock.
• ·If you can't find fresh morels, don't use dried ones here—use fresh spring mushrooms (girolles, chanterelles) instead. Dried morels are for stock, not this.