The larder
offal
Sweetbreads
The lamb's most delicate secret.
Sweetbreads are the thymus and pancreas glands, and they're the gateway offal — nothing scary about them, and once you've had crispy sweetbreads with capers you'll wonder why we ever stopped eating them. They're creamy, tender, and take beautifully to browning in butter. Get them from a good butcher; freshness matters more than almost anything else.
In season: springsummer
Where to find it
A proper butcher, ordered ahead. Lamb sweetbreads are gentler than veal.
Pairs with
CapersBrown butterLemonPeasBaconSherry vinegar
How to pick it
- Pale pink, firm, no discolouration
- Ask for them from young lambs — they're smaller and finer
- Should smell clean, faintly milky
How to treat it
- Soak in cold water for 2 hours, changing it twice, to remove blood
- Blanch for 3 minutes in salted water, then plunge into iced water
- Peel off the outer membrane with your fingers — patience
- Press between two plates in the fridge for an hour for even shape
- Dredge in seasoned flour and fry in butter until deeply golden
Watch out
- – Never boil them — they turn spongy
- – Use within 24 hours of buying
- – Undercooked is unpleasant — colour tells you when they're ready
Cook it: recipes with sweetbreads