The salt-marsh's crunchy, sea-tangy asparagus.
Bright green, tender, snap-crisp, and free if you know where to look. Marsh samphire loves the coast in July and August. It's naturally salty — never salt it further. Blanch briefly and it becomes the finest partner for any fish you can put on a plate.
Salt marshes on the east coast (Norfolk, Fife); good fishmongers in season.