The larder
vegetable
Rhubarb
Technically a stem, honestly a fruit, secretly a saviour.
Forced rhubarb from Yorkshire's Rhubarb Triangle arrives in January when nothing else is happening. Field rhubarb turns up from March. Bright, tart, indestructible in a compote, and just as happy alongside mackerel as it is in a crumble. Learn to embrace the sharpness — sugar is only half the answer.
In season: springsummer
Where to find it
Any greengrocer, or grow it yourself — it's practically impossible to kill.
Pairs with
GingerVanillaMackerelYoghurtAlmondOrange
How to pick it
- Firm stalks, no floppiness
- Bright pink to red (early season) or green with red streaks (later)
- Trim any leaves off immediately — they're mildly toxic
How to treat it
- Chop into 3cm batons
- Roast with sugar, orange zest and a knob of butter at 180°C for 15 minutes — don't stir
- Compote gently with vanilla for spooning onto everything
- Pickle young stalks in cider vinegar for cutting fatty things
Watch out
- – The LEAVES are poisonous — compost them, don't cook them
- – Stringy old stalks want peeling first
- – Roast rather than boil to keep the shape
Cook it: recipes with rhubarb